İspir looks almost sunk into the Çoruh valley, steep slopes on one side, river-cooled air on the other. Known for beekeeping and honey-scented gardens, this is a place where evenings fall early but conversations run late. Walking along the river running through the valley counts as a plan in itself. Don't know what to do? Don't sweat it — most things here turn up on their own. Roll the dice and listen to whatever the valley says.