Life in Aşkale isn't just what passersby glimpse from the road. Set along the Karasu river in the shadow of old lime kilns, this is a place where winters run long and conversations run longer. Even a tea stop on the way to Erzurum counts as the local ritual. Not sure what to do tonight? Walk the main street and pick somewhere to sit. The rest is a dice roll — you just have to throw it.